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CORSET PATTERN DRAFTING CALCULATION SOFTWARE PRINT MESH DRAWING
PRINT CORSET DRAWING
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MEASUREMENTS FOR CORSET DRAFTING
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MESH DRAFTING
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Bust front
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Waist line
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Т:Т1
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Underbust front
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Through T1 perpendicular to the waistline
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Bust circumference
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Hips line
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TB
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20,0
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Underbust circumference
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Bust line
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TG
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Waist circumference
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From points T, B,
G horizontally to the left to the intersection with the perpendicular. Points B1 and G1
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Stomach circumference (11 cm)
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Back gap distanse (for the lacing)
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Т:О
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Hip circumference
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Distance for lacing emforcement
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CS
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Distance to the side
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T:C
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Radius of rounded bone
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Through C perpendicular to the waistline. On the bust line point C1, on the hips line point C2
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Distance between cups (strap)
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From point C to defer up (lifting waist line side)
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С:С5
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Small horisontal line through C5 (points C51 and C52)
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Waist to stomach
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Side seam position at the waist
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С:С3 и С:С4
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Waist belt width
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The position of the upper front line
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G1:B
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Draw horizontally to the vertical through point C3 through B.
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Underbust line position
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G1:L
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TEST! Measure the distance T1:L and
compare with the measure The distance from the base of the bust to the waist. Allowed difference in
1 cm
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Position reliefs in front (mark on the hips line)
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The first relief
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B1:B(1)
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The second relief
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B(1):B(2)
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Back reliefs position
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C4:R1 = R1:R2
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Draw perpendiculars through points B (1), B (2), R1 and R2
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Through L
draw horizontal. The intersection with vertical lines from B (1) and B (2) -
points L1 and L2.
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Waist belt position on the shelf
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T1:T11=T1:T12
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Waist belt position on the back
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Т:Т_1=Т:Т_2
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Waist belt position on the side
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С51:С31=С51:С32
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Draw horizontally through points T11, T12, C31, C32, T_1, T_2
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BUILDING RELIEF
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Control points of reliefs on the front (hips line)
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B(1):B2=Б(2):B3
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2,0
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Connect the points B2 and L1. intersection with the waistline = point T4
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Connect the points B3 and L2. intersection with the waistline = point T5
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The position of the reliefs in front (Waist line)
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Т4:Т6=Т4:Т7=Т5:Т8=Т5:Т9
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The position of the reliefs in front (Hips line)
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B2: B4 = B2: B5 = B3: B6 = B3: B7
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Control
relief points on the back (waist line) = the intersection of the verticals from B (3) and B (4) with the waist line. Points R1 and R2
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The position of the reliefs in the back (Waist line)
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Т10:Р1=Т11:R1=Т12:R2=Т13:R2
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The position of the reliefs in the side (Hips line)
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С2:B8=С2:B9
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The position of the reliefs in the back (Hips line)
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B(3):B10=B(3):B11=B(4):B12=B(4):B13
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Through all
points of reliefs and sides at the waist draw verticals to the intersection with the waist belt lines
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Connect
obtained points below the waist line with the corresponding points of the lower reliefs
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Connect the obtained points above the waist line with the points L1 and L2 in front and with the points reliefs on the upper back line
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T81 Line: L2
extend to the intersection with the top line = point B3
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Intersection
T81 lines: B3 with bust line = G3 point
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Estimated Upper Cut Position
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G3:B5
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Horizontal line from B5 to the right
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В5:В6
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1,0
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From L2 to the right
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L2:L3
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1,0
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Connect the points B6, L3 and T91
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Position
top of the side seam in front - point C1
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Position of the top back side seam
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G:G5
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Connect C1 and C31
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Connect G5 and C41
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Check the under bust line:
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Check the under bust pattern (without darts) and enter in the right cell
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L4,L5,L6,L7,L8,L9
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Draw the final side and curve lines of the back through these points
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Drawing the upper and lower cuts
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Distance between cups
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G1:G2
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Place a rounded bone to G2 and L1 (horizontally and under a slight incline) and circle its shape
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Make the strap in the front center and armpit line through B5 and B6
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Measure the pattern along the abdominal line (without darts) and enter in the right cell
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Position of the deflection on the side seam
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С32:С33=С42:С43
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Deflection on the side seam and on the back curve |
С33:5=С43:6
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Finish the side and back curve lines (negative value =concave line, positive value = convex line)
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To finish the back corner if needed. Its peak is on the level of the vertical line B(3):R1
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Draw the upper edge of the back
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Restore the perpendicular lines from the side cuts till the bottom line
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Draw smooth lines
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